LIGHTWEIGHT 25.4mm BICYCLE ALLOY SEATPOST SADDLE STEM 300mm LONG

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Ok, so it's not cheap - but Canyon's VCLS seatpost is designed to offer superior vertical flex/compliance whilst maintaining lateral stiffness. A floating seat clamp means that saddle tilt is not affected by the comfort providing flexion. The first bicycle frames were made mostly from steel, with steel tubes of a standard (outer) diameter. The British and Italian standard diameter for seat tubes was 1 1/8″ (28.6 mm). Older French bicycles used 28 mm tubing. Old US bicycles (mostly BMX and older bikes that used one-piece cranks) was 1″ (25.4 mm). Don’t punch it in. If it can’t be eased in by hand, it’s probably too wide. Forcing it in makes it very, very difficult to move or take out later. It might even damage some frames. Yes, 26 mm is not the most commonly used size (though it is listed in Table 1 above), but I could find it online. Seatposts by nature are simple beasts. Dropper posts notwithstanding, the clamp is the only mechanism. Most posts have adopted versions of the same system for years, with a variation in the number of bolts often the only difference.

There's plenty more options available - just make sure you opt for one in the correct diameter and with sufficient length for your riding position. Seatposts: All you need to know If you don’t have calipers, you’re hard-pressed to get the diameter. An adjustable wrench can be used as calipers, then measure the gap on the wrench. However, it’s almost impossible to distinguish 0.2 mm increments with a tape measure. Locally (in Novi Sad), I can source 25.4 mm seatposts, but of poor quality – the clamp has very coarse saddle angle adjustment, so depending on the seat tube angle, the saddle can end up being either too much upwards, or downwards tilted (if you know what I mean).Similarly, if you ride a very small frame size and intend to have the saddle quite low, make sure there's nothing obstructing a longer seatpost from slotting in. However, whilst you can always cut a seatpost that's too long, you can't add to the length if it's too short.

Related post – How to choose a comfortable saddle (the first in a series of 5 posts explains saddle materials): Bicycle saddle materials Finally, the suggestion that a less than 0.2mm difference in seat post diameter would make the post too small to fit snugly in the seat tube is laughable. Any halfway decent clamp should easily account for 1mm error or more. It is easiest to measure the existing seatpost outer diameter – if there is a well-fitting seatpost on the bike. In case there’s no seatpost, we would need to measure the seat-tube’s inner diameter (using calipers, and minding to measure the tube itself, not the seat-clamp’s inner diameter). To help prevent mistakes when purchasing or changing seatposts, this article explains what kinds of seatpost diameters are most commonly used and how they are measured. Only diameter (width) is dealt with here. The length of the seatpost depends on frame geometry (design) and size – i.e. how much the saddle needs to be raised from the end of the seat tube. A separate article explains the maximum amount of seatpost extension from the frame (minimal insertion length). For seatpost height in terms of bicycle fitting, see: Setting up comfortable riding position.Not sure I understand the setup, but, if a narrower seatpost is to be inserted, using an adapter to fit the difference between the seat tube, and the seat post – then no need to change the clamp, if it’s in good condition. Only valid for active forum users. Active means at least 30 postings within the last 30 days (no spam postings). Getting a saddle straight in the clamps can, at times, be a minor faff. Too often the clamp mechanism can be slow to react or overly sensitive to the tightening of the bolts. Not here. I had my saddle set and tightened almost immediately. It really was that simple. Once on, the seat looked reassuringly solid in its level position. I trusted it would remain so once I got riding… Enve carbon seatpost - the ride Most seatposts are a lot wider than 15.75 mm. Machining the sidewalls down would weaken them tremendously in my opinion.

If you don't feel your bike needs to be any more comfortable, and you're not fussed about 100 grams, then aluminium seems like a smart choice. If you want to drop the weight or add some cushion, look to spend more. As for the 0.2 mm difference, it is probably counter intuitive for many people, but in practice it can cause one, or several of the following: Also, at several parts you refer to Vernier calipers, but none of your images have Vernier calipers. You show just plain old digital calipers that don’t have a Vernier scale. Look up what a Vernier caliper actually is. Method 1: if the frame already has a mounted matching seatpost – one that attaches firmly enough so it doesn’t slide, while being narrow enough to allow easy mounting and dismounting – then it is sufficient to measure its outer diameter, as was explained above in the section –“How to measure the seatpost diameter?”. But measuring the circumference means you only have to distinguish a 0.6 mm difference (because everything is multiplied by 3.14…), which is doable.I've only used Enve with single-bolt saddle mount. New-er Enve posts have two bolts to adjust angle. Have anyone compared Save vs Enve? When it comes to cancelling vibrations, there are several steps brands take to aid this in frame construction: using thin seatstays; placing the seatpost clamp lower down so that more seatpost is exposed (allowing for more flex); and using a narrower seatpost A carbon seatpost is effectively an additional step; a cherry on top.

So far I have not found any seat posts that are that small (no clue what became of the original) Any advise would be greatly appreciated. alot of bikes are made with missmatched seatpost and you will also find some bikes that have a build up of paint around the seatpost hole,on most older steel bikes you can remove that old paint build up with a smooth round file and chase up the correct size seatpost,even some weld splatter stops seat post from fitting correctly,very common on older bikes,you seatpost should fit in without too much force and should not be floppy when you slide it down,you can buy seat post in just about every size,the older 25.4mm ones can still be found on new steel bikes,discarded old bikes are a very good place to look for hard to find seatposts. Previous to joining the Cycling Weekly team, Michelle was Editor at Total Women's Cycling. She joined CW as an 'SEO Analyst', but couldn't keep her nose out of journalism and in the spreadsheets, eventually taking on the role of Tech Editor before her latest appointment as Digital Editor.Aero road bikes come with aero seatposts. These are flatter and designed to channel air more seamlessly, limiting the resistance that slows you down. The criminal trial for the murder of cyclist Moriah Wilson that has gripped the nation and cycling world alike gets underway in Austin, Texas, today. As is consistently the case, aluminium is perfectly adequate and will do the job. Carbon seatposts, however, offer greater dampening from road vibrations and are lighter. Standard outer diameter dimensions were important so that derailleur clamps etc. could be made in exact matching sizes (derailleur clamp inner diameter needs to match the seat tube’s outer diameter). Higher quality frames are usually made with thinned down tube walls to reduce the weight of the frame. This meant that a wider seatpost diameter usually meant a higher quality (and lighter) frame. So high-quality frames with 1 1/8″ seat tubes usually had 27.2 mm wide seatposts.