Games Workshop Citadel Pot de Peinture - Contrast Volupus Pink (18ml)

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On the paler end of the scale for blues and greens, the less saturated Briar Queen Chill finds itself sitting alongside Aethermatic Blue. I wanted very pink Pink Horrors. This recipe uses an airbrush for zenithal highlights and basecoating for speed, but I am sure this could be achieved with a brush. This covers the painting of the whole model. Skin Iyanden Yellow and Nazdreg Yellow were a dream for painters when they first dropped – easy-to-achieve yellows in one coat! Bad Moon Yellow provides an even brighter choice, especially over a White Scar undercoat. Airbrush steps - 1) Basecoat with Screamer Pink . 2) Zenithal (top-down, but most of the model) Magenta 3) Zenithal (directly above) Emperor's Children 4) Under shade with Volupus Pink

Teal and turquoise are crucial when painting lizards, magic effects, and Space Marines like the Alpha Legion – and Kroxigor Scales fits alongside Leviadon Blue and Akhelian Green to give you even more choice. And there’s more – all Citadel Colour Shades have been reformulated to make them even better, seven more have been created, which we’ll be taking a look at next week. Plus, we’ve also perfected white spray paint, making it easier than ever to undercoat your miniatures. Tidy up anything on the skin as needed, but you can get away with a bit of sloppiness due to the organic nature of the model. I then highlighted the skin with pure Deepkin Flesh. A new alternative to Volupus Pink , Doomfire Magenta is lighter and brighter, opening up new avenues for painting pinkish tones.

The Glow

Magos Purple and Shyish Purple were lighter Contrast paints, perfect for tinting and glazing . Out of the pot Luxion Purple provides a rich and luxurious layer.

I painted the off-yellow skin in slightly different ways on my Barbgaunts, Psychophage, and Von Ryan’s Leapers – employing various combos of Plaguebearer Flesh and thinned-down Nazdreg Yellow over a Wraithbone base, with highlights ranging from Dorn Yellow to Flayed One Flesh – but they all still look like closely-related beasties. I’ve got yet another approach in mind for my Termagants… That’s it, your Saurus is done! If your shield has areas that you want to make stone, like I did on mine, just follow the same steps from the stone weapon. Sitting next to Volupus Pink, but even richer, this colour comes close to the intensity of Screamer Pink, but with the unique flow of contrast. I have had a great deal of fun experimenting with using various real-world colour schemes that can be found in nature for my Tyranids. I’ve so far attempted schemes based on the following:An extra step would be to use the highlight colours to add striations over the muscles to really build the skin up. But, when painting 30 of these... Lizzie: Easily one of the most vibrant of the green tones, this really draws attention to a miniature. I’ve used this to create some bright warp flame, and Nighthaunt magic. A supercharged alternative to Warp Lightning, Karandras Green is one of the most intense Contrast paints in the whole range. The other parts of the models are more consistent – the shiny insectoid carapace uses Gryph-Charger Grey over a Leadbelcher basecoat, with added highlights of thin striped Stormhost Silver , all followed up with a wash of Terradon Turquoise thinned with Contrast Medium . The meat and bone bits are Flesh Tearers Red over Wraithbone, with Pallid Wych Flesh highlights. The meaty parts then got a thinned Volupus Pink wash, while the talons and hooves were finished with a wash of Gryph-Charger Grey. Gav: Termagants and Neurogaunts