Professional Rust Proofing/Wax Injection Gun for Underseal & Waxoyl etc WS1

Product Information

Before I waxoyled inside the chassis members I set the compressor to maximum and sprayed out any dust and crap. It was all quite clean in here, otherwise I would have had to power wash it and wait weeks for it to dry. Removing dripping clothes I entered house in “minimal Clothes” to resolve fuse prob, when Lights went on I saw the cat… If you really want to protect and get Waxoyl to do what it's supposed to do, then (as I do with all of my cars) pay for a professional steam clean of the underside and professional Underbody Seal with a pressurised delivery system. Then Waxoyl on top of that yourself with a tin of Waxoyl and a manual hand sprayer every year. During summer is best, then it's protected for winter. Diesel is slightly more available and has a higher molecular weight than kerosene so its slightly more protective in its own right, but it smells unpleasant and stings the eyes, so I prefer kerosene. White spirit would evaporate if one wanted to build up multiple sprayings, as would water.

Winter is not when waxoyl should be applied, but I had no choice. I did my best to get everything dry and warm before applying the waxoyl. I put 2 floodlights and one blow heater under the van 30 minutes prior to waxoyling and kept these on under van throughout. I decided to use a Waxoil gun and my compressor, I had the propane burner on in the workshop since 3.00pm flat out and it was like the sahara, in fact it was so hot I decided a T-shirt and shorts was the dress code. I have a custom built pressure washer of enormous power which can blast off the rust. See this clip: True story that has been on the LR forums for a few years... anyone who's had dripping Waxoyl in the face while DIYing the job will appreciate this...

The Shutz gun

when it's done fill the pot, but make sure the emulsion holes[little holes you drilled in the tube] are in air, bolt the top on[bit of paper will do as gasket] connect the blow gun up and squirt Thhhhuuuumpppppppp !…grwat big snotty big dollop spewed out over the kitchen worksurface... no probs I thought, ...I’ll sort that out when I’ve finished, as I might make "a little bit more mess yet".... glad she's not in.

Like anything else, you have to prepare properly and apply it properly. It's no good just slapping it on crusty surface rust as that'll just fall off. Do some prep work first, take the "clumps" off and cover the rust hiding underneath those big clumps. There are also different kinds of treatments. Plain old Waxoyl is water resistant but will wash off over the space of 4-6 months, sooner if you make a habit of driving through a lot of standing water. There's also Underbody Seal with Waxoyl added. This gun has a screw thread that is designed to fit onto many popular undersealing products – except, for some reason, Waxoyl. I emptied out a tetrashutz tin and used that. This is easy to do and costs next to nothing. The oil doesn't solidify so its self repairing, and highly penetrative. Nowadays though theres better things available, Dinitrol is good, I used this in my Capri and so far had no rust at all in all treated areas. But I now use Bilt Hamber Dynax s50, it is superb stuff, and again ive not had any rust in treated areas. It most certainly works, I've used it for years. Yes, it kills existing rust. Yes, it stops new rust forming. It's particularly good for inside doors and box sections.Long term, it forms a semi-solid skin of wax (demi-semi-solid in average Scottish temperatures) under which rust continues. later that evening...... Alleyway door closes and SWMBO walks in..... "have a nice time dear ?......." "what the HELL is that smell ?" I've got away with it...."all done"...I've got away with it...."think I'll have a beer"...I've got away with it....I've got away with it...."Would you like a glass of wine ?"....I've got away with it....yippee....I've got away with it....and This did not improve the sink/kitchen area one little jot, .....ever tried holding a 'waxoiled cat' in a sink with water and rags, and especially when cat does not enjoy it ? Oils: These tend to be more penetrative but evaporate quite rapidly, meaning that the application usually has to be renewed yearly.