Makita 7104L/2 240V Chain Mortiser

Product Information

If I had my time again I think (through rose tinted glasses) I'd have liked to do this for a living.

The machine is carried on a large substantial base, on which a compact frame is supported, which carries the necessary band wheels and feed mechanism. Alternatively, you can speed the process up by taking the tool to your nearest approved Makita Area Service Agent. It easily and smoothly plunges a first mortise (about 11/16" x 2-1/16" with the 18mm chain) all the way through a 6x6. I have used them all, the Mafell, Protocol and Swiss Tool mortiser are incredible tools that greatly speed things up for the professional.The main thing is really the impracticality of getting a 200kg piece of 200 x 200 oak into a position to be morticed.

Although they had a chainsaw, trying to cut a mortise with it by hand turned out to be super dangerous because the chainsaw would kick up every time the tip of the blade touched the wood. As Henry says the size of mortice required on most oak framing is too much for a pillar drill morticing attachment. I have sharpened plenty of chainsaw chains and handsaws and such but never before a mortiser chain so please educate me! It requires way to much force to be applied to the small locking lever to hold when applying the locking lever.So I am just wondering if there is something I am not aware of that will be reliably quicker than a big bit in a drill, followed by chisel and hammer work.

Scientific American is part of Springer Nature, which owns or has commercial relations with thousands of scientific publications (many of them can be found at www. The chain is rotated from a sprocket wheel at its upper end, as shown in the cut, while it is brought to a proper state of tension by the feeder bar which is seen at its lower portion. I have been looking onBay and gumtree for weeks and seen nothing useful, then two come along at once. If you're just starting out and you need business, equipment, tech or training support you're in the right place.The biggest downside is that you are limited by the depth of the mortises, they are not UL listed (the last time I checked) and the upfront cost. I wouldn't hire mine out, I'm afraid to say - it's too critical to my trade to feel comfortable with that. The team had some parts kicking around so they made a fixture to hold the chainsaw as it is plunged into the 4×4’s. but the sheer number of large and deep mortises convinced me to spend the money on a chain mortiser.

Poking a hole for a mortise works, but I've found it is cleaner and faster to hog out the hole with a drill or boring machine. I had pondered a sword saw for the tenons, but these are really just a glorified chain saw (limited to 200mm cut) and as I already have a couple of those I think I can cover the tenons and general dimensioning with a big circular saw and a chain saw. However, an innovative tool like the Makita Chain Mortiser is a great time saver that provides professional results for both timber framing and log home construction.

Can anyone tell me if they have purchased one of the used models from Japan and if they had any issues with voltage (Japan is 100v while USA is 110-120v)? Repetitive work like this easily gives me tennis elbow as well so I am wary of overdoing this kind of task that will require a good deal of hammering, even though I slightly think that using a chain mortiser is cheating.