Fujifilm XF35 mm F1.4 R Lens

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Both lenses produce a similar bokeh in terms of quality, they both swirl slightly, but the 35mm f1.4 does produce slightly creamier results with better separation and falloff. The 35mm f1.4 also has a slightly more visible field curvature so you see more of that creamy bokeh in the center and it falls offs off towards the edges. Between the Fujinon 35mm f1.4 and the f2, center sharpness is very close. The Fujinon 35mm f1.4 is sharper than the f2 at those faster apertures like f1.4, f2 and even f4. Are you on a mid-level budget, and you want superior image quality, sharpness, bokeh, and you don’t care about weather-resistance? Get the 35mm f1.4. The only reason I wouldn’t recommend this lens is if you are very concerned about weather resistance. In which case, either the Fuji 23mm f2 or the Fuji 35mm f2 will be a better fit for you.

Since the 35mm f2 focuses silently, it will be your best option for video. The 35mm f1.4 chatters a lot more, both with the aperture and the focus motors. At this 1m focus distance, the XF 35mm f/2 is showing to be the sharper lens across the frame while maintaining similar bokeh to its older brother. At this distance, the 35mm f/2 is the superior lens, provided you don’t need that potentially all-important full stop of aperture. That extra speed gets you lower ISO in dim condition and better subject separation when shooting shallow depth of field. How important those points are to you will help guide your decision. Compared to the younger f/2 WR lens, the f/1.4 has some definite strengths and weaknesses. It isn’t weather-resistant, and it’s costlier. But with such great specs and a long history of top image quality, the cost is well worth it.It’s one of the best lenses in the Fuji X-mount range. The f1.4 lens is also better in low light, and it does have shallower depth, which is more useful with the 50mm field of view, compared to say a 35mm fov. A 50mm fov really lends itself to portrait photography and f1.4 will help you produce better looking portraits with better subject separation.

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Unfortunately neither of these lenses are jaw dropping and the 35mm f1.4 is a little expensive when you compare it to the full frame Canon and Nikon 50mm f1.4. As far as size is concerned, the f/2 is only slightly smaller from what I was seeing, it’s a bit awkwardly shaped which may matter to some. Also of note is the stupid lens hood that’s included isn’t even the GOOD one, which you have to buy separately. Overall for me, it wasn’t enough to convince me that it was worth a trade in or 400 of my dollars.

Basically, something is either wrong with your 35 f/1.4 or you need to find a better focusing point. Mechanically, the focus motor in the 35mm f/1.4 is probably the loudest of all X-series lenses. The new f/2 lens has a completely silent and very fast focusing motor. The f/2 is definitely a faster performer in the autofocus department, and in my experience, hunts a bit less in very dim light as well. Test #1 – Close Up Performance The reality is, both of these lenses will give you stunning, sharp photos with great bokeh. The real question is whether you are looking for something that is also a wide angle lens or not, and your budget. The 23mm f1.4 is definitely in the upper price range when it comes to Fuji lenses. His expertise with equipment doesn’t end there, though. He is also an encyclopedia when it comes to all manner of cameras, camera holsters and bags, flashguns, tripods and heads, printers, papers and inks, and just about anything imaging-related. Another, later 35mm prime lens from Fuji is the Fujifilm XF 35mm f/2. Released in 2015, it was a more affordable alternative to the f/1.4.

The XF 35mm F2 is weather sealed and its focusing is all done internally. This is great if you are pairing the 35mm F2 with a weather sealed Fujifilm body like the X-Pro2, X-T2, or X-H1 as this will ensure that your kit is nice and safe should you encounter some less than ideal weather. Since its focusing is internal, this also means that the lens always stays the same length and is very compact – its an excellent companion to any Fujifilm camera. Today, I’m pitting the original lens for the X-Series, the venerable XF 35mm f/1.4 R against the new normal prime, the XF 35mm f/2 R WR, a slightly more compact and weather resistant lens that has just been released for the X-Series of interchangeable lens cameras. The lenses carry the same field of view and have a one stop difference in aperture. Which should you get? Is the new lens better than the relatively good 35mm f/1.4? Let’s find out. X-E2 with 35mm f/2 WR and X-T1 with 35mm f/1.4 The Lenses Here are a few sample photos with the Fuji 23mm f2 from my travels. Photo taken with the Fuji 23mm f2 in Bavaria, Germany. Photo taken with the Fuji 23mm f2 in Atrani, Italy. Photo taken with the Fuji 23mm f2 in Berlin, Germany. As I have said several times now, both of these lenses are good choices. They both have their advantages and their disadvantages when compared to the other. But in the end, one has to be chosen as you likely don’t need two 35mm lenses in your kit. You may have guessed, based on what I said above, but my personal opinion is that for the vast majority of you, the XF 35mm F2 R WR is the better choice. It has newer and better technology inside of it and it performs better in most situations and by most criteria. In the end, my choice is the 35mm F2 R WR, but yours may be different

When you shoot with Fujinon lenses the RAWs and JPGS are loaded with a built-in lens profile correction. When you load the images into your editing software, they come fairly corrected. I also think that you have a really bad copy of the 35 / 1.4. The corner sharpness I get from mine is far, far, far better than what I am seeing here – even at f1.4 or f2.The bokeh looks really, really similar. Definitely not a full stop like seen in the 23mm f1.4 and f2 comparison, but more like a half stop or three quarters. I’ve seen different lenses produce different depth of field at the same apertures in the past so this must have something to do with the design. Unless I’m crazy? Am I? I don’t know. Each lens is catered for different environments and different styles of shooting and one lens isn’t necessarily better than the other because they each provide a different set of features. In this comparison, I’ll go over the pros and cons of each lens to help you decide which lens is best for your style of shooting.

Is there a technical reason why this would be true? Wouldn’t the F2 lens work equally well on the X-H1 using IBIS? Overall, the 35mm f1.4 does perform better in the center and much better in the corners and even in the edges at those faster apertures. By higher apertures like f8 the difference isn’t as extreme except the 35mm f2 does still have some corner issues that never resolve. Before my Fujifilm journey, I had a Nikon D5000. Not the best camera by any stretch of the imagination but I loved the 35mm f/1.8 lens ever since a trip to Budapest in 2013. However, when moving onto Fujifilm, I wanted something a little wider and that’s why I ended up settling on the 23mm f/2 for travel photography. The 23mm lens is a great all-rounder and was pretty much great for everything but sometimes I felt something was missing. I couldn’t quite put my finger on it but felt it could be down to focal length. It’s hard to deny how great the build quality is on the Fujifilm 33mm f1.4 R WR LM. Of course, it’s weather-resistant. Fuji’s lenses are some of the hardiest that we’ve tested over the years. So if you’re hiking in the forest and get caught in a rainfall, you can just keep shooting with the camera as long as it’s weather-sealed. You’ll thoroughly enjoy it and the reliability it delivers.If you if you stress test it each lens you can find some CA, but in daily photos it’s pretty much non-existent.