Tamiya 87038 Extra Thin Cement, 40ml

Product Information

I’ve just got hold of a bottle of Tamiya extra thin cement and I am converted! This stuff is amazing for a lot of things but because it is so runny, I still need the normal viscous type of plastic cement. If you are using cement that has a built-in brush in the cap, don’t use the brush when gluing parts that have already been painted. If you do so, you will most likely get some paint on the brush tip and it will, in turn, get transferred into the rest of the glue in the jar. Over time, this can cause deterioration of the glue’s adhesive or welding properties. The very simplicety of the kits is the trap for careless stupid mistake construction so take your time and don't rush. Interestingly Faller also makes an "Expert" cement specifically for laser cut wood kits as well - same needle applicator but less prone to clogging it seems.

Plastic Model Cement | Frontline Hobbies Plastic Model Cement | Frontline Hobbies

Micro Kristal Klear is a glue which is typically used to glue clear parts to create small windows up to about ¼ square inch. I first came accros this product at the Original Caboose Hobbies. It was less expensive than the other brands. I think we've got our wires crossed. I have the extra thin. What I want to know is if the normal Tamiya cement, i.e. this: They are the best types of cements for plastics. I've been using them for 19 years, and I wont use anything else now.

The brush is a clear plastic tube with clear bristles, and is quite large. Compared to the brush from the extra thin cement, it is huge. Because of the clear material, it is hard to see how much cement is on the brush. It holds a lot. If taken from the bottle and applied directly to a model, cement will be running all over the place, so it would be best to replace the brush with a spare from a used extra thin bottle, or use a fine paint brush. It is in fact pretty much the same thing as your regular white glue such as Elmer’s. Now you may be asking what on Earth you should pay so much for such a small bottle of PVA glue. The answer is that, unlike other glues, this one is guaranteed to dry crystal clear. Most normal PVA glues will not be as clear as the Micro Kristal Klear when they cure. As mentioned above, this glue would be ideal for those who are sensitive to the odor of standard model cement, or for younger modelers, with proper adult supervision. It is a definite improvement over the old non toxic cement of the past. I scratch a lot in plastic, using Evergreen parts for the most but also Plastruct one and course some plastic ready to build models.

tamiya Extra-Thin Cement quick setting / Tamiya USA tamiya Extra-Thin Cement quick setting / Tamiya USA

I may be wrong but I think you will find that the majority of liquid adhesives mentioned so far have varying degrees of MEK in them. That's what makes them work well. Some may also use solvents like acetone to accomplish the same task. It is still going to have the stupidly long drying times that that type of glue has. You are still going to need to clamp the parts together for a few hours for it to set. We will not sell, distribute or lease your personal information to third parties unless we have your permission or are required by law to do so. We may use your personal information to send you promotional information about third parties which we think you may find interesting if you tell us that you wish this to happen. https://www.faller.de/gb/en/Products/Model-layout-construction/Utilities/SUPER-EXPERT-Plastic-Glue-25-g-sid9758.html Leave it to dry without touching it – You will know it’s dry when the glue turns clear from its normal milky colorIt is also a great helper when you need to create the glass of positional and other lights on a model. Just a put small blob of the glue where you want the “glass” to form and leave it to dry. When dry, it is possible to paint the “glass” with acrylic clear paints such as Tamiya’s X-27 Clear Red. After making several applications, I did get it to work, but because some areas were quite wet when I placed the heavy paper images on the styrene, some were distorted when the MEK soaked through to the printed-on image. For years, I used ordinary lacquer thinner when working with styrene, but several years ago, they changed the components of it, and while it's still useful as a paint thinner and brush cleaner, it is absolutely useless as a cement for styrene. When I was a kid I remember at one time the only cement in the local drug store was a tube of "non-toxic, odor free cement". The clerk told me it had an ingredient called Limonene that kept kids from getting high. Later I learned that it was added to remove the irritation caused by the odor of the chemicals in the glue, with the added benefit that it did supposedly keep abusers from getting any unintended benefit from the glue. All I remember is that wherever I tried to apply the glue, I ended up with a mess of spider web strings, and the glue really didn't work that well. So I just opened up my bottle of Tamiya Extra thin and I have a few questions. Let me preface this by saying that I've only used Testors plastic cement until now.