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The cutting gauge’s knife is held in place with a wedge, this also allows it to be removed or replaced if it becomes dull. A dull blade will not mark the workpiece as accurately as a sharp blade, because it will leave a much wider line. Some believe that a woodworker is only as good as his or her scribing tool. Whichever way you see it, you’ll find a marking gauge an indispensable tool once you’ve learned how to use it.
Like all of the best marking gauges, it holds its setting firmly and cuts a clean line. What sets this one apart is a touch of luxury.Still, you can use a metalworking gauge for the occasional woodworking. This option is one of the best metalworking marking gauges you can get without dipping into extremely expensive professional-grade tools and machinery. The cutting gauge uses a knife instead of a pin to mark wood. This allows it to make a deeper marking, meaning it can be used against the wood grain. One side of the knife will have a bevel (a sloping edge) to make the knife point, this should face the fence so that it is waste side of the work piece (the side of the wood that will be cut off).
This Cutting Gauge below may be a modified #2066 Patternmakers’ Marking Gauge, since I can find no reference to this Gauge. Below is a very early ‘ Anchor‘ marked #2118 Rosewood Mortice gauge with a brass slide and full faced brass wear surface. Note the circular brass head insert with an included cup-shaped brass washer. In fact, it’s one of the best tool making projects for beginning woodworkers. It can be built with just a few tools using scrap wood that you have lying around the workshop. Below are 2 ‘ Improved Mortice Gauges with Improved Stems‘ showing the Anchor Mark [ 1838-1859]. The stems are 6.3/8″ long and the gauges are identical except one is Ebony and the other is Boxwood. Note the Round escutcheon plate rather than the earlier ’round plate with ears’. Credit subject to status and affordability. Terms and conditions apply. Axminster Tool Centre Ltd trading as Axminster Tools is a credit broker and is Authorised and Regulated by the Financial Conduct Authority. Credit is provided by Novuna Personal Finance, a trading style of Mitsubishi HC Capital UK PLC, authorised and regulated by the Financial Conduct Authority. Financial Services Register no. 704348.
The #2117 gauge was a standard gauge between very early times and 1959<, but of course with various number changes [see chart]. A standard low cost gauge [because it was not thumbscrew operated]. Made however with Rosewood and with ‘fancy’ brass and ‘plated’ head. Of course, in these early times, Rosewood would have been readily available from South America. Why? Because this way the pin will be shaped more like a cutting gauge, and produce cleaner layout lines for your joinery. Don’t sharpen them too much, though, or they won’t hold their edge for very long. In the Western world, pins are the traditional choice and can be found on most antique marking gauges. They’re cheaper and easier to use than their knife-based peers, and can be sharpened with a standard file. I have found that there was produced a larger variety of this marking gauge, still with the same Reg. number and Patent number. But it does not show in any catalogue. Below is a photo of it on the right with 3 of its’ smaller brothers:
This Ebony Cutting Gauge appears in 1873 as #475 and in 1888 as #646‘ Ebony Improved Cutting Gauge‘. Faced Oval head with a 10″ stem. It became #2096 in 1909 and persisted through 1928, but is not listed in 1938. Shown below missing the brass mushroom shaped cutter keeper. Japanese marking gauges, or keshiki, are slightly different than their western counterparts. The basic shape and outcome is the same, but there are a few key elements that make them unique.Accu-Gage (Metric): Solid and precision measuring instrument for making highly accurate height-of-cut adjustments on greens mowers. When it comes to wheel gauges, it can be difficult to sharpen them due to just how small they are. One false move once they’re unscrewed and they could disappear never to be seen again! Synopsis: The cutting gauge is indispensable for furniture making. It’s perfect for marking dovetail and tenon shoulders, and can be used to sever fibers and minimize tearout before making a crossgrain cut with a tablesaw or router. Timothy Rousseau takes a look at the two types of cutting gauge and shows how to sharpen and tune up the cutter so it will give you the precise line you need to make tight joinery. A marking gauge can technically be used for mortises by changing the measurements, but it’s best to use a mortise gauge or combination gauge. In a pinch, you can even use two separate marking gauges for each side of the mortise.
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