IceToolz Crown Race Remover

Product Information

After crown race has been pulled, loosen plunger assemblies and remove the CRP-1 and the crown race from the fork. Finally, the stem spacers and stem fill up the rest of the steerer tube. The star fangled nut (SFN), installed in the steerer tube, allows the top cap and preload bolt to pull the whole system tightly together. Then, the stem bolts are tightened to keep it snug. Now, on to some tips for headset installation and removal. If there is, you can install a 1” threadless headset to replace the threaded headset. HOW TO REMOVE A THREADED HEADSET It is also possible to replace retainer ball bearings with loose bearings. Grease cups to hold bearings, and place balls into cup shaped races. Leave a wide gap the size of two ball bearings, do not attempt to fully fill cup.

Removing and installing threaded headsets requires specialist tools. Successful removal and installation depends on using them correctly. Toward the tippy top, a dust cover is placed above the preload spacer(s) to protect the bearing from the elements and allow the system to be tightened properly. This Cane Creek top cover has the preload spacer built-in. On other headsets, the cut blue ring in the center will be a separate piece, slotted between the upper bearing and the steerer tube. There are two types of headset, threadless and threaded. The fork, however, is the key to both designs. A star fangled nut setter is one of the smaller headset specific tools that is worth purchasing if you regularly work on bikes. If you only need it once every few years, it’s likely better to take the fork to a bike shop.Also, do the whole round. Rotating the fork by 1/8 of the circle. Work slowly and gently, without much force so the steerer tube doesn’t get cut, or damaged.

The biggest job is frame refurbishment. You need to remove all components; strip the bike down to the frame, then take it to a paint shop Other alternatives to the SFN include any of the steerer mounted stash tool systems that each have unique ways of tightening the headset. A few of those systems include the One Up EDC Tool System, the STASH Multi Tool from Granite designs, the Specialized SWAT system, or the Bontrager BITS. Tighten handles of both plunger assemblies evenly until blades begin to wedge under the crown race. Threads of plunger assemblies should be approximately equal relative to outer shell. Continue to tighten the handles of the plunger assemblies until the edges of the blades are snug under crown race. Do not over tighten. Unthread and remove threaded race. Hold fork to prevent it falling to the ground. Note orientation of bearing retainer (if any).This bike has an integrated headset, so all you can see externally is the large FSA dust cap. The bearings are seated directly against the inner head tube. Place upper headset cup on top of head tube. Hold one cup guide onto top threaded press plate and lower assembly through top headset cup. If your frame takes an external cup to house the bearing, this will be the next headset component in line from the floor to ceiling. The lower bearing either rests in this cup, or in an identically shaped piece of the frame. If play is present, repeat steps “6” and “7” above until play disappears. Adjustment is finished when there is no play in any position as the fork rotates. NOTE: If you are not removing bars completely, use care not to kink or damage housing when hanging bars on bike.