Games Workshop Shade Carroburg Crimson Acrylic Paint (Red, Pot, Carroburg Crimson, Metal, Plastic, 25 ml)

Product Information

Starting from a Grey Seer Spray undercoat as usual, I’ve painted the body with Contrast Nazdreg Yellow. The first is light that is bounced off of the skin retaining the color of the source light. In typical conditions (outside, under a blue sky) this is a slightly cool (tinged with blue) white color. Typically, when you’re taking flesh tone and mixing in white to highlight, this is what you’re approximating. On the surfaces where light is shining directly, you get more white showing through. Dark hair, dark eyes, olive skin. Big variation here as you get the more yellowish East Asian skin with the more brownish-yellow skin of Mediterraneans and Latinos also fall within this group. A variety of green, copper, and pink Citadel Colour paints can be combined with Carroburg Crimson to produce a stunning and harmonious color scheme. Based on their closeness to Carroburg Crimson on the color wheel, as well as their complementary and analogous hues, it was decided to mention these particular paints. After this, we go to our base coating, which is pretty simple. I hit the flesh with Rakarth Flesh for a nice pale gray tone. I go for Naggaroth Night for my purples, Leadbelcher for the silvers, and Zandri Dust for my bones. I start dark on my little evil Drukhari tubes all over the model with Dark Angel Green and hit the tabard with Bugmans Glow . Finally, the pants get a coat of Dryad Bark . The end result is a nice jumping off point for where we want to go with this model.

Put some Contrast Talassar Blue in the channels on the splinter weapons to give it a nice glow effect Jain Zar by Gav Thorpe also features the Drukhari in significant fashion and gives them some real show-stealing scenes.Now add a little dot of White (Scar, or your choice of flat white) and keep going in the same way, until you’re at 1:1 with your starting Cadian:Ushbati mix and your white (that’s 1:1:2 overall). You’re getting just teeny tiny details at this point. Burnt Umber looks close to Mournfang Brown, and the model has a basecoat of Unbleached Titanium which is close to Screaming Skull best I can tell. For Horns I generally use Banshee Brown, Skrag Brown, or Deathclaw brown. I do like to get a bit fancy sometimes. I like to try and wet blend from a Deathclaw Brown or Skrag Brown up to the Banshee for a nice little growth gradient. I’ve done a few where I start with a Vallejo Beasty Brown or Charred Brown to the Deathclaw and then to the Banshee for a real shift in colors. You can help with this gradient by doing a second wash on only the darker part of the gradient after the first has dried. I have also found you can get some interesting effects if you use a second color wash before the first has dried completely – like doing a Reikland or Carroburg over the Agrax just at the very base where it comes out of the flesh. Just make sure to wash your brushes so you don’t cross contaminate your wash pots. Eyes For this you will need a white, along with a transparent red, orange and yellow. In my case I used VGA Gory Red, VGC Orange Fire and Golden High Flow Acrylics Hansa Yellow Medium. While a variety of colors will work well for this as long as they thin well to a transparent state (So most reds, yellows, and oranges), I’d avoid any colors that aren’t full saturation. I’ve tried this with Carroburg Crimson as the red, but using colors that aren’t as bright muddies the effect greatly.

Layer up the armor – this will give a nice white armor effect with shading that is actually visible but that still reads as white:

Corrode’s Method

Now I darken in a rough ring around that with Seraphim Sepia – the last stage of bruise healing is a brown. I also return to the main wounds and darken them with a little more Druchii, drakenhof nightshade and Carroburg Crimson. Instead of soft areas, I almost stipple to create an uneven surface.

ZIVth has probably told you a whole lot of stuff about the specifics of melanin and the biology of skin. I don’t know all that much about those things. I did, however, take some serious art classes and really enjoyed portraiture, so I had some experience with portraying skin, and mixing colors, as well as some of the theory about how light interacts with your skin.Sybarite Green where it makes sense on the cloth – this is a bit of an art, but you want to put some lines to give it some definition. You can push these further with Skarsnik Green if you want