Gold Label - Pig Oil and Sulphur

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If left in, mud will dry and slip off. I don't brush the legs, but I have very heavily feathered horses. You could then if you wanted, go over with a brush. Due to the discomfort caused by these mites, horses often cause themselves further injuries by vigorously biting, scratching and rubbing the affected area to try to relieve the severe irritation. These injuries can then become infected, creating an even bigger problem. All of this weakens the affected horse, resulting in weight loss and lowered immunity to other diseases.

Protein quality plays an important role in coat condition. Quality protein sources include Extruded Full Fat soyabean meal, faba beans and lupins along with good quality forage. A small amount of good quality oil on a daily basis can be used to improve coat shine, particularly for sale or show preparation. How can I improve my horse’s coat? As an alternative baby oil is also mineral oil and is similar, I regularly use this instead of pig oil as sometimes per litre its cheaper and its more refined but also usually contains paraffinum as an added ingredient. Carr & Day & Martin Casablanca Polo Cashel Celtic Equine Charles Owen Dever Dublin Equilibrium Products Equine America Equisafety EQX Gold Label Although they can occur in any breed, feather mite infestations appear to be much more prevalent in the heavy horse breeds, likely because the feather creates an environment ideal for mite growth and reproduction. Signs & Symptoms of Feather MitesFor milder cases of mites, topical washes, sprays and shampoos can prove effective treatments. A patch test should be performed prior to use of any external treatment, to ensure the horse does not suffer an allergic reaction to any of the ingredients. Mites are around all year, but the onset of horse mite infestation seems to be more of a problem during the colder months. It is thought that this is primarily due to the fact that the mites seek out the body heat of the horses, but there are also theories about the fluctuation in air temperature during the Autumn months, and the beginning of the moulting process, lowering resistance to mites in some horses. So these months are generally thought of as being a riskier time. Lice: Apply liberally to manes, tail and body with a soft brush or sponge massaging well into base of mane, rump and tail areas that are more commonly affected. Reapply as necessary. Polo Equipment Polo Equipment for the Horse Saddles Polo Helmets Polo Equipment for the Player Polo Accessories More Polo Equipment for the Player Pugh, D.G., Hu, X.P. & Hughes Bourke, K. Control of Chorioptic Mange Mites on Horses, Donkeys, and Mules; Alabama A&M & Auburn Universities.

These mites are incredibly small, around 0.4mm to 0.6mm in size, and need to be identified under the microscope. They irritate the horse by biting the outer layers of skin to feed on the skin debris, fat, or sore that they create. The condition can initially look a bit like eczema, but if left untreated can result in crusty scabs or even large calluses and warts. Although they can cause incredible discomfort in horses, these mites are less dangerous than some of the other types of mite, with few cases resulting in severe harm, and while itching will be present, the reactions in infected horses are usually less pronounced than in other cases. However, they are very persistent and can be difficult to fully eradicate. As mites only feed on the surface of the skin, it’s possible that they don’t experience the full effect of drugs given to the horse either orally or by injection and thus are not completely eradicated when such treatments are used. Demodex mites are more common in herds of horses and are very rarely seen in horses kept individually. Infected horses will often have a scaly texture to the affected skin, with lesions appearing most commonly around the head and eyes, progressing later on to the shoulders and sometimes the entire body. According to Paterson & Coumbe, “The mite’s life cycle is approximately 3 weeks and is completed on the host; however mites can survive for up to 69 days away from their host.” (2). In short, if you want to eradicate feather mites it is critically important to make sure you treat all horses on the property, thoroughly clean all stables and equipment and rest potentially infected pasture for a minimum of 12 weeks. If you do not do all of the above, the horses you’ve treated will simply get feather mites again. Pig oil and lime sulphur is an old-fashioned and less expensive method of treatment and prevention. Studies have shown a reduction in clinical signs and absence of mites in horses treated with four applications of a 5% lime sulphur solution at weekly intervals.Waterproof barrier for legs: Apply liberally to dry legs using a soft brush or sponge. If the horse has heavy feathering you will need to ensure Traditional Pig Oil is massaged through the feather thoroughly to create an effective barrier. If very muddy conditions it may be necessary to wash the legs and allow to dry before reapplying Pork fat contains a lot of vitamins A, B and D. These are vitamins and minerals that are very good for human health. Vitamin A helps prevent eye diseases, while vitamin D helps promote calcium absorption in the body. How do you use pig oil spray?

Linseed oil is the best option to use as it contains high levels of Omega 3, has good palatability, isn’t too pricey and is suitable for a large range of horses and ponies. Grass is a good source of Omega 3, so horses who receive little or no turnout will certainly benefit from supplementation. What oil makes horses coats shiny? Brewers yeast is very good for digestion with the added bonus that it's very good for skin and hooves too, you should see a difference within a month. The skin should be supple and shiny at al times even with a winter coat if she is healthy and that will show in the state of her mallenders too. You could add oil to her feed but being what she is that might not be good for her waistline. Also, being what she is she might be finding your grass to rich for her which will all have an effect on the skin; gypsy cobs are bred to be hardy and do well on the cheapest ground, by bringing them out of their comfort zone to richer grazing and diets let alone being molly coddled (not saying you do, just generalizing!) with rugs and all sorts it's not surprising that their bodies and systems sometimes react differently. Mane and tail detangler: Apply liberally to mane and tail using a soft brush or sponge and massage through with the fingers. Leave to penetrate then brush through. Reapply as necessary. Plan to apply the chosen treatment multiple times. Doing so will significantly increase the chances of success. Washing and topical treatments should be repeated once a week for a minimum of four weeks. Udder cream doesn't last more than 5 minutes. I use it for XC as a leg grease, and it has always mostly gone by the end of the course.You can also use Pig Oil sparingly on manes and tails. It is much better, and far cheaper than those detangling sprays. It lasts longer too. It stops the mane and tail hairs tangling and breaking. It also repells the mud. It you have a horse that is having its mane and tail eaten you can mix a bit of cribbox or similar in with the pig oil. This lasts for weeks. Whatever is nibbling your horses mane & tail will stop it if it gets a bitter, greasy mouthful. Treat all the horses on the property at the same time, thoroughly clean all stables and equipment, and rest any potentially affected pasture for a minimum of 12 weeks. The other issue with using chemical agents is that they are often only external treatments, meaning they are highly unlikely to reach all the mites present on the horse. Natural and unavoidable factors, like rain and sweating, can also reduce the effectiveness of the treatment. The wide range of products available reflects the fact that no one treatment has proven effective for treating all cases of horse mites. Five facts about the horse’s gut (and how we can use this information to help keep our horses healthy) Lice: Apply liberally to manes, tail and body with a soft brush or sponge massaging well into base of mane, rump and tail areas that are more commonly affected. Reapply as necessary. Once weekly washing is recommended using Nettex Equine Veterinary Surgical Scrub where necessary to remove the build-up of dirt and grime before reapplication.