Drayton MA1 3 Port Valve Actuator Head 230V, 27651

Product Information

At the moment, there is nothing wrong with the system, thank goodness. It was a case of putting two and two together and coming up with five. The water was very cool when I showered and so I advanced the timer to heat it up. The boiler was working fine as I had the heating on at the same time. As my MPV position indicator is 'hidden' from view, I had never realised that the MPV stayed in the last position demanded by the system and concluded, wrongly, that I had found the cause of the cold shower; assuming that the MPV had not moved when demanded. I had always thought that the MPV only moved to the H position when heating was demanded.

The MPV actuator is a BGMVSP-23. The control and thermostat is a Hive system. Boiler is a Worcester Greenstar Ri. System is gravity fed open vented system, tanks in the loft and HW cylinder in airing cupboard.Given that, if the flow valve is permanently open and the 3 way switch is in the middle then water should always flow around the central heating. If the valve was previously at Heating only, the result is the valve being held in that position, so finding the valve at H with no demand after using the heating is normal operation and exactly what you would expect. formatting link When there is a HW demand but not a CH demand, the valve is un-powered and sits in the HW position. The boiler and pump are powered directly from the cylinder stat. As I said, when I turn the water on, the actuator does move to either the mid or W position depending on whether there is demand for Heating as well. In that respect it all works perfectly. At the moment I am assuming that the valve is in the mid way position (otherwise we wouldn't be getting hot water from the tank and some heat from the radiators) and the strange behaviour of the heating is because it only works when the programmer for the hot water is on.

At this point, demanding Hot Water causes the actuator to move to the W position and if the demand for Heating is still there, the actuator moves to the mid-position. (This is counter-intuitive to the problem of no hot water in the morning as when I test the system the actuator moves with hot-water demand even though it had not done so yesterday morning!) Last night my partner heard a very strange buzzing whiring noise coming from what i now know is the "mid position actuator" . However, turning off the system power causes the actuator to return immediately to the W, relaxed, position under spring pressure. Turn on the system power and everything works as it should, until the Heating-only demand is satisfied when the actuator remains in H.I was ready to go buy a new actuator as I believed this was the problem, however it appears to operate as described in the above discussion. That is, there is a shared (flow) valve which has to open to allow any water to flow, then a second 3 way valve which decides which way the water will flow. With the head unit removed from the valve body, turning on the system and demanding Heating causes the actuator to move to the H position. Turning down the room stat satisfies the demand and the system shuts down the boiler and the pump but the actuator remains in the H position. Cycling the demand fires the boiler and pump but satisfying the demand with the room-stat has no effect on the actuator which stubbornly remains in H.

I do know they have a circuit board and very flimsy, but normally reliable, micro-switches but why would I want to go replacing the whole actuator, as you suggested in the first place, or even the circuit board as you now suggest, when the excellent descriptions of correct operation given by both 'Jonhmdc' and 'flameport' show that my actuator was working correctly all along and the only thing at fault was my understanding of its correct operation.For some reason later in the day, with the hot water off and the heating on, twiddling the thermostat does not cause the boiler to fire and the pump to run; I assume causing the pump to run is the critical test because the boiler usually fires a bit after the pump runs. When there is a CH demand but no HW demand (tank stat satisfied or HW off at programmer) the valve moves to the CH position. A microswitch in the valve actuator switches a live supply to the orange wire - which then powers the boiler and pump.

I assume if the 3 way valve was working properly and the heating side wiring wasn't requesting heating then the 3 way valve would be set to Heat and the central heating wouldn't work. However although I heard the main valve move and watched the plastic lever move, I haven't heard anything from the 3 way valve and the plastic lever seems to be floating. Anyway having diagnosed this far I'm going to leave it with the central heating and the water heating on full time to see if I can get the temperature in the bungalow up to the expected level. I have a really weird problem with a Drayton MA1 mid-position valve and I can't find any reference to this specific problem.One year ago (almost to the day) the Drayton MA1 mid-position actuator was replaced (4 years old) on my central heating system as it wasn't operating correctly. It was replaced with another MA1 and the problem was solved. However, I have just switched on my central heating for the first time this year and find that I always get CH with HW even when the CH timer is off. I looked at the MA1 and can see that the valve position is in the middle (HW+CH). If I unsnap the actuator from the valve I can turn the valve manually. I then tried the following with the MA1 removed: If heating or water is called for the main valve opens and the 3 position valve moves to Heat or Water. If both are called for then the Mid position is selected which allows water to circulate to both. From what you say, does the actuator stay in the H position when the demand is satisfied when the timer is still on (as well as when the timer shuts off) and if so, what is keeping it 'actuated' there and thus stopping the spring pressure from returning it to the W position? Very frustrating and don't know what else to do with the damn things other than to have a different make and model installed. I don't do it myself. I get a professional to do it - thank god I have an all-singing-all-dancing central heating insurance cover to deal with it. I have looked up the model and found it to be a "drayton mid position actuator MA1" and wanted to know what i need to do to replace it .