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If there isn’t a fuse box in the dashboard, glovebox or footwell to get to you have two options. Older cars may have a standard ISO car audio loom that provides those feeds, or you can get a longer cable that will reach fuse boxes in the boot or under the bonnet.
If you put the fuses in the wrong positions, you may get fuses blowing or electrics getting damaged. This is because the items will be protected with incorrectly rated fuses.
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BUT when the primary fuse is removed, the secondary circuit is also removed despite still having a fuse in place. This is due to both circuits feeding through the primary fuse. The following pictures show how each fuse affects the circuits, starting the the fuse tap in the correct orientation. (note that in my example, the red wires are positive and the yellow wires are negative). With the primary fuse in (red in this example although it should have been yellow), the 2 blades have continuity but the red lead for the secondary output does not. Experienced dash cam installers will know there are plenty of other options, but they’re car model-specific and may involve splicing into existing looms. If in doubt get a competent and qualified auto electrician for that type of installation. Dash cam installation: no more suction cups Don't worry about the possibility of running the car battery flat with a permanently powered dash cam. Hardwire kits that come from the dash cam manufacturer itself have built-in limiters. These will ensure the battery does not drop below a critical voltage.
Which way around is correct? You’ll have to use a multimeter and find out. 1 probe on a car earthing point, multimeter reading DC volts and touch each of the terminals. 1 terminal will show about 12 volts and the other terminal will show no reading. Problem 3 product/helpAdviseTab.hbs -->