adidas Men's Bc0884 Track Shoe

Product Information

The Stealth C4 rubber is a fairly standard 3.5mm along the sole, with a thinner strip over the toe. Therefore, most of the NIAD's stiffness comes from the midsole. In truth, there have been more than one occasion on slab and vertical where the grip and edging ability of these shoes have given me the confidence to place weight on a tiny hold. These were situations I would have most likely bailed with a softer, more flexible shoe.

With regards to sizing the NIAD VCS use Five Ten's new sizing model: wear your shoe size. Sounds crazy doesn't it? You just wear your street shoe size. I think it's great: for a comfortable fit wear exactly your street shoe size, for performance go down a size and for all-day comfort wear a half size up. I wear mine in a UK 9.5 (and my trainers in a 10) and they're tight enough for technical climbing but still comfortable. I have worn a few different pairs of Five Tens since they implemented this new system and I have to say it works really well and seems to produce consistently-sized shoes, which is something that many brands seem to struggle with (including Five Ten in the past). If you are used to the old Anasazi when it was manifactured in the US then we suggest going a whole size up for the same fit** Over several months (pre-COVID) I have traveled all over the US with this New and Improved version of one of the most ubiquitous shoes in climbing. From granite to sandstone, limestone to basalt and a whole lotta plastic, I’ve tried to give myself every opportunity to be right, which I happen to value more than is probably healthy. Here’s my experience: Feels Like the First Time (Blatant Foreigner Reference): Like any shoe, you could opt for a bigger, more comfortable size, or a smaller performance fit. In an all-around shoe like the Pinks, I prefer to have a size that I can’t wear all day but can wear for several pitches without having to take them off. The Anasazi Lace has a synthetic upper so they hardly stretch when breaking in, therefore I’ve only ever downsized the Pinks half or one whole size from my Five Ten approach shoe fit. The Verdict Other nuanced improvements in fit revealed themselves throughout testing. In a nutshell, Five Ten minimized loose areas compared to the Anasazi line. Noticeable changes included the internal volume around the top of my arch, a common area of bagginess for me.I’d recommend anyone looking to leave behind the gym rentals to try the VCS as they will provide a high level of comfort and durability on a wide range of climb types. Overall, I have been really impressed with the Anasazi VCS, so much so that I decided to get them re-soled instead of throwing them on the used pile. If I could change anything about these shoes it would be to have more toe rubber and a wrap-around heel… So basically the Anasazi Pros. Bringing the top of the heel cup slightly forward towards the toe box has done this shoe a couple of great favors. The added rubber on the heel has been carved to an angle that is actually helpful for heel hooking (more on that later) and hey, no foot fart! So… yay? This could also be another reason why standing flat in the Anasazi Pro feels so awkward at times. Like my weight is being forced towards the front of the shoe a bit, as if my toes are on a tiny curb and my heels are in the street. (I’ll talk about this more when we get to performance). I tested the NIAD VCS in the Sierra Foothills and Yosemite Valley this winter. The results were impressive: The flat-lasted (neutral) sole excelled on thin seams and vertical to gently overhanging faces. The chiseled toe design was precise enough to stand on small nubbins and powerful enough to smudge steep edges, while additional support came from heel tension (slingshot rand) that pushed my toes into the toebox. And reliable friction came from the 3.5mm C4 rubber on the soles. It was instantly comfortable enough to wear for an entire one-hour assault on a slightly overhanging granite boulder. I continued to wear the shoe at each boulder without taking them off otherwise, for a whole day.

Five Ten also makes the NIAD Lace in a women’s version, which our female editors are looking forward to testing as well. Photo credit: REI. Five Ten NIAD Lace: A Granite Gobbler The uppers are made from lined microfibre, which certainly gives the NIAD a comfortable feel. Five Ten believe the use of this material helps the shoe to 'maintain a consistent fit,' whereas in reality the shoe's shape changes considerably over time. That's not to say this is a bad thing – the Anasazi always changed over time, and as previously mentioned, what this means is that the shoe's purpose changes too: from an edging machine to a sensitive smearer. At first, this does feel slightly unusual, once you get used to finding the sweet spot though, it’s easy to see the benefits of this design. Having power directed over the big toe might allow for a higher degree of precision but centralizing the toe box makes for more powerful, secure, foot placements. It distributes weight through two toes rather than just one and makes climbing long and technical routes less strenuous on your feet.

Conclusion

There is no doubt that these shoes are designed for slabs, long sport routes, and all-round beginner/intermediate level gym climbing. If you buy these expecting to crush those awesome cave problems at your local gym, you will be disappointed. The Pink is our favorite shoe for vertical face climbing, and one of the most time-tested, high-performing all-arounders money can buy. Once I got to the gym, it didn’t take long to realize the Anasazi Pro is not really a Pro performer in anything in particular, at least not enough in a way that is reasonable to market. Hot take, I know. I wish I could say I was impressed or discouraged immediately with any specific outcome, but it was a little more nuanced than that and really depended on what I was doing. In my mind a Pro-influenced or designed shoe would have pro features baked in and apparent, here the additions to the old design seem like a well-executed afterthought. The Pinks have handled most styles of climbing I have thrown at them. From slabs to vertical and slightly steeper walls, they feel great. Be warned though, that the Pinks will reach their limit on very steep sport, bouldering, or modern competition routes. The strategically placed velcro straps are easy to overlook but are an essential contributor to the comfort, and performance, of the shoe. Most double-strapped velcro shoes opt for a lower first strap, often placed around the ball of your foot.