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Posted 20 hours ago

Marley Bathroom Extractor Fan 5 Inch 5" In-line Ventilation Without Timer Flexible Ducting Kit Included Wall or Ceiling Mounted Kitchen Bathroom Shower Wet Room WC

£9.9£99Clearance
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About this deal

As with the steps above, either a shower isolator switch is used that is normally installed outside the bathroom above the door or it’s possible to use a 3-pole pull cord switch that is usually installed in zone 3 inside the bathroom. Before anything is done at all the very first job is to isolate the power to the circuit you will be working on! This means pulling out the fuse or turning off the MCB for the lighting circuit the bathroom light is getting power from.

When it comes to electrical work in the bathroom, as this is regareded as a “special location” by the regulations, any electrical work can and should only be carried out by a Part P registered electrician so that it is ensured the circuit is installed correctly and to regulations standard, can be fully tested once complete and finally a minor works certificate can then be issued to sign everything off. Another point to be aware of is that in many installations a 3-pole isolation switch is fitted to the fan to allow it to be totally isolated from its electrical supply in the event it needs maintenance work.As it’s in a bathroom, although it’s not required, the belt and braces approach is to fit a 3-pole isolation switch so that all potential live points; permanent live, switched live and neutral are isolated when the switch is turned off. The other end is connected to the timed fan terminals as stated by the manufacturer in the instructions provided with the unit. This then enables the independent pull-cord switch to trigger the fan, and allow it to run on, in accordance with the timer setting when the fan is switched off.

It must also be possible to isolate the fan by means of a pull cord switch inside the bathroom, or a fan isolation (3-pole) switch outside of the bathroom.

From the FCU, the 3-pole isolator switch is connected up using a suitable length of cable that’s stripped at both ends. It’s connected between the 2 units, neutral terminal to neutral terminal, live terminal to live terminal and earths to earths. If however an axial fan (one through the wall) is being installed this will need to go on an outside external wall. When wired to its own switch, the switch itself will either be located outside of the bathroom, normally above the door or it can be inside as long as it’s in the correct zone and is a pull cord switch. Again, if installing a axial fan through the wall you may need to chase out a section of wall to run the cable to the fan. In this guide we take a look at how a timed fan unit or extractor fan with a built in timer is wired up, read on to find out exactly how. Safety Regulations for Electricity

Firstly the cable is capped over using a PVC capping or piece of trunking. This then protects the cable in the wall. Once the fan is positioned, the next task is to get it wired up. A suitable length of cable is cut to run from the 3-pole switch out to the fan. For both different types of units they can also be tuned on and off through normally 2 different means; they are either wired into the light, so that when it’s turned on the extractor comes on also or they have their own dedicated switch, normally as an isolator outside the bathroom above the door or inside as a pull cord switch.If you are unable or don’t want the fan wired off of the lighting circuit and want independent control then an independent switch will need to be installed. Once capped over any chases are then filled using a suitable type of filler or plaster. Once dried it can then be sanded flat with the surrounding surfaces and then finally painted. The wiring diagram below shows the wiring setup you need to connect your new timed fan to your existing light circuit ceiling rose so that when the light is turned on, so is the fan. A 4-termial junction box is required to connect up the fan, 3-pole switch and the pull switch, and is wired similarly to a ceiling rose or light junction box, utilising connections for earth, neutral, (permanent) live and a switch-live.

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