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As well as customising your brakes to your own specification, there are essential repairs and replacements that need to be made every so often for safety reasons. This is possible with the car on a full height lift and after removing various shields etc, maybe the fuel tank, it will probably not be possible on axle stands. Thats what I thought you would get with the kit I linked to but it looked different, but looking closer at the picture the female coupler might be a back to back one but its only 7mm long, the pictures aren't very clear. The passenger side was OK, Drivers side unfortunately went to undo the brake pipe nut on the chassis end of the flexi and it appears to have been rusted to the pipe so the pipe kinked. These fitments are notorious for welding themselves together - this is where the penetrating oil (WD40 or similar) and flare spanners come in.
I would therefore recommend using a pressure bleeding system like Gunson Easee-Bleed, they're cheap, effective and far more easy to use.If you go to an independent garage your rusty steel brake pipes will probably be replaced with copper ones - they don't rust and they're easy to put into the car without stripping it down. If you're flushing the system then continue until you start to see the new fluid flow out of the nipple and down the pipe.
Premium Material] Brake tube kit is made of high-quality flexible brass, durable, convenient, and won't rust. Once you have the full length of brake pipe on the ground and fully released, just push it out between the front wheels and remove it. On right hand drive cars the near-side is easier to remove than the off-side (driver's side), but neither is truly difficult to remove as a single item if planned.
It’s therefore essential to keep your brakes in top condition and to replace worn or damaged brake parts when necessary.
You need to make sure that none of the brake pipe fittings is leaking and that everything is tightened to the correct torque especially if you removed any calipers to paint them.I've tried the little generic on-car (block with a handle) style - although they work better than the traditional ones with the separate clamp and bar, I found the threads strip out easily - had it happen on three units that hadn't done much work. In cars built after about 1960 you will only ever find double SAE (imperial) or single DIN (metric) flares.
The easiest way to do this is to place the fitment and flare the end of one end in the brake pipe (ready to be attached to the car), but to leave the other end un-flared and sealed with tape. Lubricate the brake pipe fitments with brake fluid or a very small amount of copper grease before tightening them to the brake hose or junction box. If any are leaking then tighten them up and recheck them again by pressing and holding the brake pedal.Note the position of the types of boy fixings and, if you are replacing a rear brake, note the position of the fixings shown in the photo. Please include what you were doing when this page came up and the Cloudflare Ray ID found at the bottom of this page. This one was so badly made it necked the pipe just under the flare - actually caused a failure on my race car.
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