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Posted 20 hours ago

KUOE Old Smith 90-002 No-Date, Automatic NH38 Movement, Black, Replacement Belt Included, sliver, ミディアム

£110£220.00Clearance
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About this deal

Naoya Hida has learned the trade and honed his skills working for the likes of Vacheron Constantin, Jaeger-LeCoultre, F.P. Journe, and Breguet, before launching his own company in 2019.

With a case size of 35mm it sounds like its probably a bit on the small side but the cream dial on this example visually doesn’t make it seem that the watch is undersized on my 7 1/2” (19cm) wrist. The name of the brand is associated with the Eastern countries, as seen from a European perspective, mostly referring to the Asian continent and the coveted treasures that used to come from there in the past.Having owned the Old Smith for that last week I continually found myself admiring the finesse of its tiny subtle design details that started bringing to mind the traditional Japanese art of ’Netsuke’. It was there, in that shop, that Uchimura found the strong appeal of classic design. Deeply influenced by this experience, Uchimara was inspired to create a classic design watch brand of his own, with the belief that something that is truly classic will be loved and revered universally around the world and across generations.

Should they succeed or not remains to be seen, but it will be interesting to observe their journey. As for their present timepieces, there’s only two, both sharing a beauty and traits that characterized the watches of the 1950s. Besides these big prolific companies, there are plenty of smaller, independent watchmakers that have the qualities Japan is known for, like the excellent craftsmanship and the attention to detail that have made the big brands what they are today. Orient is one of those big and well known Japanese watchmakers. It’s on par with the likes of Casio in terms of production capacity, only that Orient creates mechanical watches, and not digital ones.Credor is a name few have heard of. But their creations are some of the best kept secrets of the Japanese watchmaking industry. The brand is actually part of Seiko, and it’s their show-off child, born in 1974 from a desire to display the best of Seiko’s craftsmanship and horology know-how.

While their minimalistic divers share similar traits to most other divers in the watch world, their chronographs look unbelievably unique, breaking rules and going beyond your expectations. The case is really nothing to get too hyped about. Polished all over. Branded crown. Big vintage-style dome. The small dimensions and curved lugs mean it’ll be at home on all but the largest wrists (which may make it look a bit too dainty). While my wheelhouse is definitely 38mm-42mm, I find a certain charm in watches smaller than that, which adds a bit to the wearing experience. Although not remarkable, there’s also nothing to complain about here. And it lets the dial do all the talking. It’s no wonder they have more than a few gems when it comes to the watchmaking industry, some of them maybe even exceeding the quality of Swiss watchmakers. At the heart of this watch is the workhorse Seiko NH-35 and all though this movement is not from some exotic Uber brand - it justifiably has a reputation for reliability and longevity (and in my case accuracy + 2 or 3 seconds a day) A gently domed, scratch-resistant sapphire crystal protects the dial, and the anti-reflective coating is very effective. The unguarded, signed crown is my least favourite thing about the watch. I’m not keen on its shape and find it a bit too small and fiddly. It’s easy to pop the crown out but not that easy to change the time or wind. Water resistance is 5 ATM/50 Metres, which is fine for a watch such as this. The Royal Smith Dial And HandsThis premium model is equipped with the automatic movement Caliber 9039 made by CITIZEN MIYOTA. Made of 316L stainless steel, the watch has the same dimensions of the brand’s 1st model “OLD SMITH / 90-001”. Topped with a domed mineral glass, the dial adopts a sharp bar index, and it has a simple, stylish and very luxurious appearance. Grand Seiko watches include some of the greatest marvels of the mechanical watch world, and are certified with a standard of precision that exceeds even the Swiss COSC in its strictness.

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