Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80 (500ml)

Product Information

It calmed down a bit over the last few days, so I decided today that I would risk actually DOING something in a "Pointy object" rich environment. The carboxylic acids like citric acid and oxalic reacts with the iron atoms in the rust to form iron oxalate which is highly soluble and hence the rust is removed - it dissolves in the solution. It's plated with a thick layer of some slightly soft metal that didn't seem to like the Deox C it had a long bath in, but as it's hidden by the lid, I'm not sure if I'm going to paint it.

The long-term performance of hydrate 80 has been proven to significantly increase coating life in independent tests conducted by the German TÜV organisation under conditions of VDA 621-415 (6 cycles, or 1008 hrs) which included exposure to hot salt-spray, 100% relative humidity and drying atmospheres with each cycle lasting 168 hours. As an example Ral3020 in Raptor, 2K Direct Gloss, Basecoat, and GIO side by side will all be DIFFERENT, even though they are made with EXACTLY the same tint. As Hydrate-80 will activate on clean steel the affected area should be cleaned beyond the visibly corroded surface, this will ensure complete treatment. Proven long-term rust prevention over partially prepared surfaces – massively increases the life of paint applied to partially cleaned steel. Our Deox range of rust removers are capable of removing heavy rust, yet remain safe to use with no danger to skin or the environment.The vast majority of our deliveries to the UK and Ireland only take 1-2 days so you don’t have to wait too long to get your hands on all your favourite detailing and valeting products. I had trouble getting the wick in, and as I had started shaking with pain by that point I was a little heavy handed with it, and it won't trim to burn cleanly all the way around, so I've got another new wick on the way to hopefully fit when I'm not feeling so messed up. I'm VERY cautious about anything that could emit CO/CO2, as many of the symptoms of breathing that stuff are the same as the symptoms I have almost constantly anyway. As with all treatments preparation is important: Remove loose, flaky rust with a wire brush and abrasive paper (or if favoured power tools). I now get to choose between carefully drilling each of then out, trying to chase the tiny imperial threads, and finding replacement brass bolts, or drilling the original inserts right out and replacing them with M3 stainless Rivnuts instead.

I suppose I COULD just find a rusty scrap of metal, paint it with Hydrate 80, then once it had cured, torch it to see what happens, but I was hoping there was some spec sheet that could give me the details in minutes rather than having to spend a morning experimenting with it myself. Proven long-term rust prevention over partially prepared surfaces - massively increases the life of paint applied to partially cleaned steel. Traditional paints and coatings applied to corrosion give disappointingly short-lived performance because they simply hide the underlying and continuing corrosion – the failure is first seen by blistering of the coating and the rapid breakthrough of rust. BH recommend it for a quicker and more of a shorter term fix, if you want something that will last longer, you need to remove the rusted metal, use DeoxC or the gel version if you can't submerge the part in a bath of the DeoxC.Unfortunately, I can't find my cheapo pyrometer anywhere, so I couldn't get a measurement on what it actually got up to. The long-term performance of Hydrate-80 has been proven to significantly increase coating life in independent tests conducted by the German TÜV organisation under conditions of VDA 621-415 (6 cycles, or 1008 hrs) which included exposure to hot salt-spray; 100% relative humidity and drying atmospheres with each cycle lasting 168 hours.

If I ever get my project near completion I will be using epoxy primer as I have read so many positive endorsements of it. Importantly for long-term protection Hydrate 80 doesn’t contain chlorine which is known to transform into corrosive hydrochloric acid in rust converter applications causing under-film blistering and destruction of paint finishes or other coating products. You need to apply two coats as per the instructions and then once dry there’s no residue and you can paint straight over the top of it. I feel like I have tooth ache all up the back of my legs, and past experience says I'll be fit for nothing for at least a couple of days now.

I had a couple of hours where I didn't feel quite so wreched today, so I soldered up a couple of little pin holes I'd found on the outer seam of the tank. Due to the many types of paint formulations and curing processes test compatibility of products at small scale before use. We will make your colour to specification, however, when added to different products the colours will be represented differently. With the recommended 2 costs you end up with a relatively thick coating - brush marks may be evident. The long-term performance of Hydrate 80 has been proven to significantly increase coating life in independent tests conducted by the German TÜV organisation under conditions of VDA 621-415 (6 cycles, or 1008 hrs) which included exposure to hot salt-spray, 100% relative humidity and drying atmospheres with each cycle lasting 168 hours.

I did think of coating things with a grease to keep flash rusting at bay, but was worried about the painter not removing it completely and ruining the paint job. Paints and coatings applied to a hydrate 80 treated surface demonstrate amazing improvements in long-term performance.Where rapid work progress is required Hydrate-80 can usually be over coated after three hours without performance loss. This old house apperes to have more than enough natural ventilation (Read "Horrendous ice cold drafts") to keep the level well below the accepted 9ppm safe constant limit.