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Hi just tagged onto this old thread but have restarted airbrushing and have been experimenting the last week or so with Xtracrylix paints, looking for some advice on Tamiya gloss varnish. I think general tamiya paints are thinned 1:1 with paint using tamiya thinners and sprayed at 15psi, that’s worked for me. I had done this in the past to get paint out of a spray can so that I can spray it in an airbrush. Yes, sounds silly but for some reasons, some color are only available in spray cans. I find they spray well with Mr. Color thinner. I mix them 50/50 for air brushing. AS far as getting them perfect on transparent parts... not sure how I'd go about that. I've brushed the Tamiya clear red, needs thinning slightly more to slow it drying really. Works for small areas fine so a Maine is fine but a rhino isn't as good. Tamiya acrylic paints are made from water-soluble acrylic resins and are excellent for either brush painting or air-brushing. These paints can be used on styrene ...
Tamiya - Color range - Scalemates Tamiya - Color range - Scalemates
Thinking of using some of the Tamiya Clear Acrylics (X-27 Red, X-26 Orange, X-24 Yellow) for tail lights instead of decals on the couple of bodies I'm working on. Has anyone had any experience using them in this fashion, or should I attempt using the PS variants (37, 43, 42) - which will require more masking - instead?After all these to and fo, I cannot believe I completely forgot this: YES, YOU CAN IN FACT BRUSH PAINT PS PAINTS! If you have the color you want in PS of course, and frankly, it will be better as they are the right paint for doing the job and paint from spray are well thinned down ready to go.
Tamiya Clear Red paint - How do I use it? - Forum - DakkaDakka Tamiya Clear Red paint - How do I use it? - Forum - DakkaDakka
Here is an example with Mr Colour silver and Mr Colour clear colours air brushed but they have clear colours in rattle cans too. The Tamiya stuff needs a lot more thinning than other airbrush paint and being alchohol based needs it's own thinner. I think a big part of my problems is that I am not getting the mixture quite right. The other airbrush paints I use (Vallejo Game Air) can be used straight from the pot, I usually thin them a little to get a better flow but they're a lot more forgiving.
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Tamiya acrylic paints are made from water-soluble acrylic resins and are excellent for either brush painting or air-brushing. These paints can be used on styrene resins, Styrofoam, wood, plus all of the common model plastics. The paint covers well, flows smoothly and can be blended easily. Prior to curing, paint can be washed away with plain water. Thin X-22 with X-20A acrylic thinner, at about two parts thinner to one part X-22. Airbrush at a lower pressure from a closer distance. Don't spray it with lacquer clearcoat though. It acts like spraying lacquer over enamel and wrinkles really bad. To sum it up, from a fresh jar, 2 part paint, 1 part water. DO NOT USE X-20A THINNER AS IT DRYS TOO FAST! If you have decades old paint like I do, then you will have to thin it down with thinner, but using water after is important as it allows the paint time to flow to hide the brush marks.