EverBuild 406 Stabilising Solution 5 Litre

Product Information

Using a stabiliser where not absolutely necessary can impede the performance of any subsequent coats because it isn’t ‘breathable’ and may keep any natural moisture trapped beneath the wall’s surface.

Furthermore, the stabilising solution and PVA will both act to keep any moisture within the concrete, hence why you experiencing problems. The moisture will force its way out eventually. If this be the case then scrape off any loos paint, allow to dry out over a period of a few weeks and paint again. You may well find this is an ongoing process or it may be isolated to one or two problem areas. For larger areas of filler I roughly smoothed over, then again used the paintbrush to texture and blend in the filler. Just scraping over with a knife will leave a smooth area which will show through the paint A subject that crops up a lot on the topic of exterior wall paint is ‘Stabilising Solution’ or ‘Primer’. Allows painting of new render finishes and re-pointing repairs without alkaline contamination of the paint, which would otherwise delay painting by up to 2 months.

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However, once it’s rubbed the surface below is relatively solid. I am worried that if I paint the surface with sandtex it could bubble if I don’t stabilise. I have tried stabilising solution and PVA but the problem keeps recurring. Any suggestions to prevent this happening would be helpful.

I plan to use Macpherson powerkote, hopefully three coats to give it a strong finish. Do you think the powerkote will be suitable to use? I am about to re-paint some stonework outside my house. It has previously been painted, but in areas it is a little flaky and kind of like white dust build up, think it’s salt or something like that. I am planning to go over the loose areas with a wire brush and paint scraper. Would you say that it would be best to go over the areas that have the white dust build up with a stabilising solution, as the old paint is very flaky in these areas? Kingfisher “Weatherflex Stabilising Solution” is available in 5 litre plastic containers. It should be stored in a cool, dry area, AVOID frost and direct sunlight. Shelf life of the product in, unopened sealed containers is 12 months. This moisture may force itself out eventually and cause the paintwork to bubble and/or subsequently flake-off.

For our situation it is a little too soon to tell the success of Lakeland’s stabilising solution on our bathroom problem wall area. This one wall area (a small cluster of patches) is particularly troublesome with a gradual peeling and bubbling appearance (under the painted surface) And this taking time to reappear once you cover with a fresh coat of paint. However what we have noticed is the Lakeland’s stabilising solution is not only pleasant and odourless —and oddly almost as transparent as tap water—and you're not sure if this only a water that you’re applying : ) However a noticeable difference is apparent once we painted over Lakeland's stabilising solution with white pigmented organic emulsion paint There seems to be a far more opaque surface quality that seems to suggest that not only is Lakeland's stabilising solution useful for troublesome unstable or damp patches on many types of wall surfaces but also this medium improves the colour density of the applied painted areas. Eventually I repainted with a water based masonry paint. Every year since then the paint has bubbled and I have had to scrape and repaint. You may find that this process removes a lot of the loose particles on the surface, presenting you with a solid surface which can easily be primed with a thineed solution of masonry paint. Regular masonry paint is formulated to allow small levels of moisture to escape through evaporation. It’s important, therefore, to avoid the use of sealers or primers unless absolutely necessary.One coat should normally be sufficient but very porous surfaces may require additional coats. Drying time will vary depending on the ambient temperature, but normally 4 – 8 hours should be allowed for each coat to fully dry. For the best results allow surfaces to cure for a minimum of 24 hours before applying the Weatherflex Smooth Masonry Paint. DO NOT apply when air or surface temperatures are below 8 °C. Would you recommend the use of sandtex stabilising solution as a primer to prevent the paint failure?? Below is a sample of questions received on the subject of stabilising primers… White dust on stonework? Scrape off as much as you can and let it dry-out naturally, which could take a long time, before attempting to redecorate.

When you have removed as much loose material as possible, treat the worst affected areas with a stabilising solution which will bind any reaming loose martial, presenting you with a solid surface on which to paint. Only do this on the very worst affected areas though. The white dust is probably efflorescence – moisture in the stonework will draw out any salts and, provided this isn’t excessive, is perfectly normal. With newly rendered surfaces, it is normal to have a certain level of dust and/or powder on the surface as a result of the drying-out process.Tools and equipment should be cleaned with warm soap and water immediately after use. Pump sprayers especially should be thoroughly flushed through with warm soapy water and then flushed with clean water until free of all residues. DO NOT allow to dry before cleaning. I was doing same repair work prior to painting a couple of weeks ago, used the Toupret Ex filler , it's superb Dry and chalky areas can sometimes be primed with a watered down coat. But if the area has already been treated with a stabilising solution I would paint over this with unthinned masonry paint.