Games Workshop Citadel Pot de Peinture - Contrast Guilliman Flesh (18ml), 9918996002306

Product Information

You can then push that further and get a more pallid look, verging on your sea elf colors. Playing at the very edge of what looks reasonable can be a great way to sell something as inhuman. With my Custodes skin, I tend to push towards grey from a flesh tone base, to really push that these are massively genetically altered giant men in golden armor, and you can use a similar effect to emphasize the otherness of eldar or elves. I put down a solid basecoat of the color I want the shadows to be. On anything bigger than a face, you will definitely need two thin coats. On a face you may be able to get away with one, but probably not. This shadow color doesn’t need to be either one of your paint colors. For a darker caucasian color, I might go with a basecoat of pure Khardic Flesh. For a lighter color, the base coat might have a pretty significant portion of Sand in it. The same two paints can do a variety of shades. Yes indeed, sounds like you've got a good starting point of info. to work from. I think it's true about the Contrasts, a lot of the lighter ones like Skeleton Horde, Plaguebearer's Green, etc. would work at full strength over Zenithal pretty well. Would be the darker Contrasts you would need to dilute.

Regarding zenithal: I keep reading that it supposedly works very well with Contrast colors. I assume you have to dillute them a bit for that purpose. So it is something I would try with bigger miniatures and bigger surfaces, where Contrasts themselves would seem to be less efficient. Regiments I will probably undercoat with a single color, depending on the miniatures. I've started speed painting a new army using mostly contrast paints. Apparently, GW still can't manage to get their s... together and has horrendous delivery problems with their products, especially paints. The first is light that is bounced off of the skin retaining the color of the source light. In typical conditions (outside, under a blue sky) this is a slightly cool (tinged with blue) white color. Typically, when you’re taking flesh tone and mixing in white to highlight, this is what you’re approximating. On the surfaces where light is shining directly, you get more white showing through.One way to describe it is that Wraithbone tends to make the Contrast colors look slightly "warmer", while Grey Seer makes them slightly "cooler." Corax White simply makes the Contrasts slightly lighter than Grey Seer does.

So, that made a total of nine Fyreslayers fighters with between four and six fighter types. Now it was time to paint them.

Get a wet palette for the love of God. Other things you could get away with it maybe, but for skin you need to keep your thin paint smooth and fresh, and you need an easy way to mix together your colours for transitions I'm with you on the "airbrush look", I'm not a fan of it either. I much rather prefer washes and dry brushes over other colors. My other thought is that with doing a double Zenithal, you might actually get better results using Citadel shades or Army Painter shades over it, for the simple fact that those shades are much weaker than Contrasts and the Zenithal will show up much, much better under them. When I put Guilliman Flesh over Desert Tan I was surprised how close it actually was to putting it over Wraithbone. The flesh WAS somewhat darker, but not drastically, at least not to me. Earlier, I promised to talk about how light is typically a white color and what this means for skin. Now is the time, and I will try to make it as understandable as possible (and I am sure my understanding is grossly simplified to start with.) The light making up what you see when you look at skin is actually made up of light that come from three different things occurring on and inside the skin. You don’t need to worry about this too much unless you’re doing Golden Daemon level work, but a basic understanding can help inform your color choices when working with skin.

Glaze 4:1 Reikland Fleshshade:Khorne Red heavily thinned on flushed areas, then retouch final highlightContrast paints really benefit from a smooth primer (as do washes, as you can see). I also applied Guilliman Flesh over Wraithbone base paint. As a lot of layers were needed for perfect coverage, the finish wasn’t as smooth as with Wraithbone spray primer. You can see the Guilliman Flesh dried more uneven because of that. Sealing the surface with a coat of satin varnish might help to reduce this effect. Glaze 2:2:1 Reikland Fleshshade: Seraphim Sepia:Khorne Red heavily thinned on flushed areas, then retouch final highlight Green can be added in tiny amounts to desaturate the colour mix if it becomes too bright, counteracting the reds.

http://www.reapermini.com/forum/index.php?s=c770bc029dd218be5d17fff14fecefeb&showtopic=17678&st=0&p=266494&#entry266494 Those two talk a lot about all kinds of theory and blending and so on. But I’ll level with you: I didn’t learn to paint skin in art classes, I learned to paint skin on minis, so my approach is a little different. Fjul Grimmir would be the leader of my Fyreslayers—195 points for the Rune Father is a good value leader and his leader abilities Lodge Leader and Honor Our Oaths are good for buffing up nearby fighters. Left: VMC Flat Earth mixed with VMA Medium Olive, highlighting to pure Flat Earth. Watered down Nuln Oil to emphasize scars and brand.

The Colours

Not all Contrast paints are created equal. The lighter colours are thinner and feel more like washes, while the darker colours can be a little flat with less visible highlights. Some colours dry smoother, some tend to be more patchy. Would you say the difference between wraithbone and vallejo desert tan is big/clearly noticeable when the colours are applied (in terms of color tone). Vallejo desert tan seems to be a lot more yellow, however if the difference to that one is noticable but not that big I might be tempted to try some of the bone white or off white alternatives. With GW's current situation it might be months until I get my hands on a new can of wraithbone spray... A glaze of thinned Nurgles Rot applied evenly over the whole area makes skin look sweaty and gives it an unhealthy sheen GW's new range matches with the old range are the matches claimed by GW. However, many of the paints do not match very closely at all and some mixing will be required to get close to the original colours. If you are trying to match old GW with new GW, you'd be better just getting Vallejo game color or coat d'arms for the closest match )